Sushi purists please avert your eyes now. There's a lot to
read through on the East-meets-West menu at Subuku Sushi in Normal Heights. And
though a small section is devoted to classic handrolls, nigiri and sashimi,
most diners come for the zany rolls — with names like When Pigs Fry and Just
for the Halibut — involving everything from sweet potato, filet mignon and
chicken teriyaki to an entire page of items with bacon.
For full porcine immersion, order up I Bacon Your Pardon.
Inside the roll you'll find a slab of bacon rolled up with spicy crab,
asparagus and lightly seared scallops. Chillean sea bass tops the roll and the
sushi chef brushes it with a glazed bacon sauce, garlic aioli and sweet
mandarin juice. A dollop of Sriracha on each piece adds color as well as heat.
It’s finished with pieces of candied garlic, tempura "crunchies" and
scallions. Of course no soy sauce is needed. The bacon flavor doesn’t hit you
over the head. Instead you’ll taste a wisp of sweet honey and hickory smoke
intermingled with seafood. The balance of flavors — sweet, salty, spicy and
bacony — is far from traditional Japanese fare but that doesn't mean it's not
utterly delicious.
RECOMMENDED ON ZAGAT
Chef Emeritus
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